Clavel pop-up will show how Mexican and Filipino food — and cultures — overlap
by John-John Williams IV
Published March 19 in The Baltimore Banner
Excerpt: When Lane Harlan opened Clavel Mezcaleria nearly nine years ago with chef Carlos Raba, little did she know that the award-winning Mexican hotspot would actually teach her more about her Filipino heritage.
Many of those lessons will be displayed Wednesday during a cooking collaboration between Raba and Filipino chef Rey Eugenio. For Harlan, the night will be a culmination of what she’s learned about her own background while operating the Remington restaurant.
“Often my mama would taste something off our menu and say, ‘This reminds me of a dish Grandma used to make,’ but I hadn’t spent time looking into historical references,” Harlan said about her Filipino mother.
The connection between Mexico and the Philippines became cemented for Harlan in 2018 when she traveled to the coast of Jalisco to learn more about mezcal. Harlan and her team have been visiting various states in Mexico for almost a decade — accumulating more than 1,200 hours of public education about the spirit.
In Jalisco, Harlan visited a mezcalero who was fermenting agave in stone wells and distilling in a hollowed-out tree trunk. The maker there spoke to her at length about the “Filipino-style” production methods. Interest piqued, the restaurateur went down a rabbit hole that revealed a centuries-long tie between the two countries separated by more than 13,000 miles.
“It is important to highlight the shared history between Filipinos and Mexicans. Filipinos have had an undeniable influence on Mexican cuisine and the production of mezcal in Mexico today,” Harlan said.
Harlan learned that Spanish trading ships, known as the Manila Galleon, linked “Nuevo España” (New Spain) based in Mexico City, to its Asian territories. The trade route, which went between Acapulco, Mexico, and Manila, Philippines, was in use from 1565 to 1815.
This story was republished with permission from The Baltimore Banner. Visit www.thebaltimorebanner.com for more.