Why Can’t Baltimore Get Any Culinary Respect?
by Suzanne Loudermilk
Published May 23 in Baltimore Magazine
Excerpt: Before it closed in 1986, the Chesapeake Restaurant in the Baltimore neighborhood now known as Station North attracted diners from all over the country. Washingtonians would regularly step off the train at Baltimore’s Pennsylvania Station and walk a block or so to spend an evening at the elegant spot. Musicians, movie stars, athletes, and locals sought a table in one of the six dining rooms in the multi-story building on North Charles Street to feast on dishes such as charcoal-broiled steaks, two-pound lobsters, jumbo imperial crab, and Caesar salad.
But as city dwellers relocated to the county, neighborhoods changed, and palates shifted to lighter fare, venerable dining establishments like the Chesapeake—and Danny’s, Haussner’s, and Pimlico Hotel—started to shutter, and Baltimore’s restaurant scene took on a different perception nationally. Though those of us who live here know better.
In a 2021 article, Forbes magazine noted that for years, “dining options in [the] Inner Harbor were mostly limited to fast food, big-name chains, and other mediocre spots targeting tourists.” Today, Baltimore restaurants garner the occasional mention in the national media. In fact, we have so much hometown pride, that every time it happens, you’d think we really rate, which we know we do, but not with the critics.